As luminous
clouds of dust swirl through the ancient landscape, a tortoise patiently
wanders in search of succulent morsels; a lizard basks in the sun while gemsbok
and red hartebeest share the arid plains with mongoose, orb-web spiders, skinks
and leggy toktokkies...
There is something innately appealing about wide open
spaces filled with nothing but animals, birds and landscapes that stretch as
far as the eye can see. Even the most urban of city lovers need time out to
switch off their smartphones, power down their laptops and just be.
The Tankwa Karoo National Park is 143 600 hectares of
Karoo veld in a basin between the Cederberg mountain range and the Roggeveld.
Here, you’ll find space, solitude and tranquillity: everything you need on a
holiday.
“It’s so open and wide,” says Letsie Coetzee, the
section ranger at the park. “You’re in solitude, even though there are other
people in the park.” As well as the peace and quiet she says the landscapes are
one of the park’s main features: “There’s always something new, even if you’ve
seen it a thousand times before.”
The park straddles the Western Cape and Northern Cape
boundary with most of the park lying within the Northern Cape Province. Due to
recent acquisitions, around a fifth of the park’s total area now includes
mountainous cliffs and higher lying areas of the Roggeveld Escarpment, thereby
giving a whole other dimension to the park.
Stop at Ceres and stock up on essentials (and fruit
juice, which the area is famous for), it’s the last town before you enter the
park (when coming from Cape Town). Letsie advises driving in a high clearance
vehicle as the roads can be hard to navigate, but not impossible, on cars with
low bumpers.
Things to do:
Switch off – turn off your
cellphone (you’ll struggle to get reception anyway) and bring that book that’s
been sitting next to your bed unread for months.
Bird watch – keep an
eye out for the curious Burchell's Courser.
Star gaze – the
absence of city lights reveal a star studded sky (take a two hour detour to
Sutherland’s Observatory to see the Southern African Large Telescope (SALT)
which is the largest single optical telescope in the southern hemisphere)
Capture the beauty –
bring along your medium of choice; sketchbook, camera or canvas and let the
natural beauty inspire you.
Build a snowman – every
so often snow falls within the 1200m above sea-level Gannaga Section of the
park, giving an unexpected addition to your photo album for an area better
known for its desert-scapes.
4x4 – The park has two
major 4x4 trails called Leeuberg and Watervlei, which requires some skill to
navigate, while other tracks in the park are fairly easy going where 4x4ing is
concerned.
Accommodation:
There’s a
variety of places to stay, ranging from cottages and guesthouses to informal
areas where you can pitch your tent.
Cottages and guesthouses:
Elandsberg Wilderness Camp
This camp consists of five cottages; all built using unbaked clay-and-straw
bricks with sections of walls built with rock. These range from two-sleepers to
a two bedroom cottage that can sleep up to six. They all have covered braai
areas, gas appliances and linen as well as crockery and cutlery. Paraffin lamps
and candles are also provided.
Tip: Each cottage
has a splash pool (great for kids).
Tanqua
Guesthouse Complex
This
guesthouse is right on the southern border of the park making it a convenient
place to stay for larger groups (up to 18 guests) if you’re coming from Cape
Town. There are four places to choose from, ranging from a two sleeper to a
separate family unit that sleeps eight. These self-catering units are fully
equipped with towels and linen, with the three units within the main building
sharing a kitchen, living room and a braai area adjacent to the courtyard
swimming pool. Catering can also be provided on advance notice.
Tip: The accommodation
is reminiscent of a desert fort, and is approximately 5km from the
Oudebaaskraal Dam and has been used for weddings, teambuilding and film shoots.
Plus, there’s a 900m airstrip if you plan to fly in.
Paulshoek
Cottage
This old
farmstead was restored in 2003, the open plan living room and kitchen are furnished
with antiques and the two bedrooms can sleep up to six people. There’s a
two-plate stove and a fridge both powered by gas but you’ll have to stoke up
the donkey boiler to get hot water for the shower. On a winter’s day, an old
wood stove in the cottage provides cosy heat taking you down memory lane to
Grandma’s kitchen. There’s no electricity, however candles and paraffin lamps
are provided, as well as linen, cutlery and crockery.
Tip: Enjoy the beautiful
views of the imposing Roggeveld Escarpment and plains as well as the antics of
visitors to the close-by waterhole while you braai outside.
Varschfontein
Cottage
This is
also an old farmhouse, restored in 2005, but this one sleeps up to nine people
in three rooms. You’ll need a high clearance vehicle to reach the cottage
especially in winter. The fully equipped cottage comes with a gas two-plate
stove and fridge – hot water can be made using the donkey boiler and paraffin
lamps and candles are provided. There are indoor and outdoor fireplaces.
Tip: This is a good
choice if you’re looking for complete solitude.
De Zyfer
Cottage
This old
farmhouse, with its traditional stoep and hearth, dates back to the early 1900s
and was renovated in 2009. It sleeps up to six in its two rooms with a
queen-sized sleeper couch in the living room. Candles are provided for light
and there’s a donkey boiler that you can fire up for hot showers. It’s fully
equipped with a gas fridge and stove plus crockery, cutlery and linen.
Tip: This is a good
bird watching spot as there’s an earth dam nearby.
Official camp
sites:
Langkloof
There are two camp sites, each with a bathroom and a kitchen area (without
cooking facilities). There’s a gas geyser for hot showers, braai facilities
(but you’ll need to bring your own grids), a carport and paraffin lamps. The
site is in the scenic upper reaches of the Langkloof, 18km from the Park
Reception at Roodewerf.
Tip: You’ll generally
need a high clearance 2x4 vehicle to get there and a 4x4 when it’s been
raining.
Perdekloof
This is a newly developed camping area, which will opened during April 2012.
There are six sites, each with their own bathroom and kitchen. Gas geysers
supply you with hot water and lighting is by means of solar power. No other
electrical points are available. Braai facilities are supplied, but no grids.
The campsites are about 10km from the Park Reception and adjacent to the
Hoenderhoek tributary of the Rhenoster River. Kudu can be regularly seen
strolling among the thick brush adjacent to the campsites and Cape Mountain
Zebra has also made the mountainous surrounds their home.
Tip: A high clearance
2x4 vehicle is fine, but you’ll be better off with a 4x4 if it’s been raining.
Informal camp sites:
There are six areas in the park for self-sufficient campers, each site is
reserved solely for the group that books it so you’ll be free to enjoy the area
without tripping over someone else’s tent strings. None of them have ablution
facilities so this is for those of you that really like to rough it. Come
prepared to leave nothing but your footprints behind.
Pyper se Boom
This site is on the way to the Langkloof section of the park and you’ll need a
high clearance vehicle to reach it (a 4x4 during the rainy winter months).
There is some shade under the trees.
Tip: Keep an eye out for
the kudu and other small antelope that have been spotted in the area.
Steenkampshoek
You’ll need a 4x4 to get to this site and it’s a good idea to bring a canopy as
there’s no shade.
Tip: This site has a
spectacular panoramic view of the Tanqua Karoo Basin, with the Roggeveld cliffs
in the background.
Skaapwagterspos
A high-clearance 2x4 will get you there and you can enjoy the shade of the
Pepper Tree on this site.
Tip: Gemsbok, duiker,
Cape mountain zebra and red hartebeest all frequent this hilly area.
Oom Rickert se Huis
In the rainy season you’ll need a 4x4 to get to this site, which has shade
provided by Acacia Karoo trees.
Tip: Kudu and other
small antelope have been seen in this Langkloof section of the park.
Volmoersfontein
You’ll need a 4x4 in the rainy seasons but a carefully driven 2x4 with high
clearance will do fine otherwise. There aren’t trees in the area but the site
is adjacent to an old ruin.
Tip: You might spot the
Burchell's Courser in this area so keep your eyes peeled for this famous
long-legged inhabitant of the park.
Biesjesfontein
If it’s
been raining you’ll need a 4x4, otherwise a high clearance car will work. The
camp site is near an old ruin but there aren’t any shade-providing trees in the
area.
Tip: Look out for
Cape mountain zebra and gemsbok.